2. Why do I need to change my drier/accumulator?
A: It removes any moisture in the system as well as debris that may be in
the system from a failing part. Anytime you open the system up to do a repair
you should change the drier/accumulator. In order to receive any warranty
on a compressor, evaporator or condenser this must be changed. The accumulator
or receiver-drier, depending on which system you are working on, serves several
purposes. Oil storage, filtering of fine debris and a moisture filter. This
moisture filter is what stops the formation of acids in the system. The acid
that can form when driers are not changed is what eats the pins holes in your
evaporator and condenser. Back to the top.
3. What is the difference between a drier and an accumulator?
A: A drier is located on the liquid side of the system and uses an expansion
valve in the system to meter the amount of refrigerant going into the evaporator.
An accumulator is located on the suction side of the system or the outlet
of the evaporator and is used on systems using an orifice tube rather than
an expansion valve. Back to the top.
4. What type of oil should I use when changing over to R134A?
A: We recommend the "Double End Capped" PAG oil. It seems to work
much better than any other oil we have tested. Back to the top.
5. How do I know which is the high side fitting and which is the
low side fitting on my R134A system?
A: The larger of the two fittings will be the high side and the smaller is
the low side. Back to the top.
6. Can you tell me what is wrong with my A/C?
A: No. We can give you our opinion what might be wrong, but without having
the vehicle in front of us and actually seeing the gauge reading and what
the system is doing it is almost impossible to know what is wrong with it.
We recommend you find a local A/C shop and have your system checked. Once
you know what the problem is then get with us on the parts and prices. This
only saves you money in the long run. A proper and complete diagnosis is vital
to making the right repairs the first time. "Throwing parts" at
air conditioning repairs is very costly and usually results in a lot of parts
being changed out that were working fine. Back to the top.
7. What do I have to change if I am converting my system to R134A?
A: That just depends on what is wrong with your system. The first thing you
need to do is make sure you do not have any leaks in the system. Then the
main things you need to change are the drier/accumulator, oil and install
fittings and a label. Back to the top.
8. Can I use any of the other types of refrigerant?
A: No. No manufacturer will warranty any parts installed using any refrigerant
other than R12 or R134A. Back to the top.
9. How do I tell which is the high side hose and which is the low
side?
A: The low side hose will be the larger of the hoses, and the high side will
be the smaller of the two hoses coming off the compressor. The smallest hose
is the liquid line. The high pressure hose will always run from compressor
to the condenser. This hose will generally be a smaller diameter than the
suction hose. The suction hose always runs from the evaporator to the compressor.
The suction hose is generally the larger of the two hoses connected to the
compressor. The liquid line always runs from the condenser to the evaporator
and is generally the smallest of the three lines. Back to the
top.
10. Can I change just the clutch on my vehicle?
A: Yes, but it is not recommended in most cases. When the clutch fails more
times than not it damages the compressor. Also, in many cases it is very labor
intensive to change just a clutch. Back to the top.
11. What is the difference between a rebuilt compressor and a remanufactured
compressor?
A: A Rebuilt compressors are not broken down and completely re-done to factory
specs. A remanufactured compressor is completely broken down and gone through,
new parts are put back in and the compressor is put back to O.E. specifications.
Remanufactured compressors are of much higher quality. Back to
the top.
12. How much R134A do I put in my system after converting it from
R12?
A: We use the formula of 75% of the original R12 charge. Back
to the top.
